Get your spoons ready: stock making masterclass

The cold weather is upon us and that means soon we will start to feel like eating more things with a spoon. Those who know me well will know that eating with a spoon is my favourite way of eating. In professional kitchens, there is a golden rule that says, 'you can tell the quality of the establishment by looking at the stock-making section in the morning. The more pots simmering delicious types of broth, the better the place is'. 

A few weeks ago I was asked in an interview for a podcast about what I miss from home. They asked if there was anything during my last trip to Spain, to Madrid, that made me realise the culinary differences between Australian and Spanish home-cooking habits?

This was my answer: 

'My Mum lives on the fourth floor of a building. Every day I went for an early walk around 8 am in order to be active. I didn't take the elevator, instead, I walked down the stairs. On the third floor, I could smell a couple of pressure cookers already with vegetarian food. On the second floor, more pressure cookers with meat broths. On the first floor some type of fish broth and potatoes. I was obviously in heaven, it became a daily sensory game for me'.

I need to say that my Mum's apartment building is not particularly ‘foodie’ as some of you may be thinking. But, home cooks over there take their stocks, braises and soups quite seriously and they prioritise them in their daily chores. In Spain, eating with a spoon is in our DNA; we all associate it with our mothers or grandmas. Plus, it’s economical, very healthy and really, really yummy!

So yep, that was the moment I realised a fundamental difference between Australia and Spain. In Spain, making stock at home is an act of love. Cooking is how we look after our family and the food we cook is how we show them we love them; knowing the soup you serve to your kids is full of flavour and fresh ingredients, which takes care and time. Here in Australia, I’ve found that not as many people prioritise cooking at home for the family. So, for that reason (and now that the nights are getting a bit cooler) I reckon we should talk about one of the basics of cooking, either at home or in a professional kitchen: 

It's time to talk about stocks!

I hope this will help those of you who didn't know you can make delicious stock at home. And, by doing so, your family budget will improve as well!

(FYI for those kids studying hospitality here in Orange, please take notes; This will be a massive part of your assignments!)

Ok, the first thing to remember is that you can make stock at home really easily, but using a large pot and knowing that for each litre of water, use 500g of bones, 100g of veggies (garlic, onion, leeks, carrots, celery, cabbage or kale leaves, etc..) and some fresh herbs known as a 'bouquet garni'.

Knowing that, the next question to ask yourself is, do I want to make a WHITE or a BROWN STOCK? What is the difference you think? The intensity of flavour is the answer. Remember the more colour in your stock, the more flavour. 

So what is the difference in making each? In order to make a white stock you want to blanch all the bones and skim the scum to clarify your liquid. Then add your vegetables and herbs and simmer for four to five hours. 

For the brown stock, you want to add colour to your bones by roasting them and add colour to your veggies by frying them in the pot. You will see how once everything is together the liquid becomes really dark after simmering for four to five hours and the flavour will be stronger as well.

In terms of protein, you can use either chicken bones, beef bones, veal bones, etc…

If you are a pescatarian, it’s important to remember to use white fish bones and don't overcook your fish stock. This stock will be ready in 20 minutes or so.

Finally, if you are vegetarian I recommend you to get colour on the skin of your vegetables, plus add a lot of mushrooms, cabbage, kale or spinach leaves, etc.


White Stock recipe


Ingredients:

1 kg Beef, veal or chicken bones

60 g Onions

100 g Carrots

40 g Celery

1 Bouquet garni (bay leaves, thyme, parsley stalks..)

6 Peppercorns

2.5 L Water


Method:

1. Place the bones in the pot, and cover with cold water. Blanch and refresh.

2. Put the bones in a clean stock pot. Cover with water and bring to the boil.

3. Skim the surface. Add the washed and peeled veggies, the bouquet garni and peppercorns.

4. Re-boil and then simmer for 4 to 5 hours and skim as required (3 hours for chicken).

5. When stock is ready, strain it and use it straight away or cool it in the fridge.

6. Remember to skim off the fat before and boil and simmer for 15 minutes before using it.

7. You can freeze it as well.



Brown stock recipe


Note: same amounts, all veggies roughly cut. Add some crushed garlic and some fresh tomatoes for extra love.


Method: 


1. Brown the bones either by roasting them in an oven, under a broiler or even frying in the same pot. Remove excess fat if necessary.

2. Fry the veggies with a bit of olive oil until they get colour. Once they get colour add the browned bones, the herbs and top up with water.

3. Simmer for 4 to 5 hours.

4. Skim and then strain into a new container or pot.

5. Serve immediately or cool quickly.

6. When completely cool, cover and store it in the fridge. Remember to boil and simmer for 15 minutes before using it.

7. If you are not going to use it within 48 hours, put it in the freezer.


I hope your house starts filling with the aromas of freshly made stocks; you'll see how your kids love it!


Happy cooking!