Twelve months ago, when Orange City Life last caught up with See Saw Wines’ Justin Jarrett, he was reflecting on what had been a very challenging season. The region was in the grip of drought, yields were down and smoke taint from the devastating summer bushfires had seen most local wineries abandon the 2020 vintage.

Today, it’s a whole different story.

“I'd say the season is extremely more enjoyable than last year!” says Justin, amid the bustle of shiraz grapes being pressed at his winery west of Orange.

“We have beautiful fresh air, we've had a lovely cool season — as most people in Orange would know it has been cold compared to the last few years — we've had rain, so generally it’s been a lot more enjoyable!”

Yields are down on where Justin would like them to be; part of that is just the vines recovering from an extended period of drought, but last year’s spring snow also had an impact.

“That snow event was just after bud burst and so that burnt some of the fruit off, but when you look back at the pressures we were under last year, then to be hit by COVID, this is almost normal… we grow grapes in an area that is tricky and that's why we like doing it here,” says Justin.

“In the midst of a heavy drought there really isn’t a lot you can do; there is a lack of water. there is literally no disease, because there is no rain... A year like this makes you use a lot more of your senses to know how the vine's performing, how to keep it disease free, how to get the best out of the fruit, how to ripen it at the right time — so all the normal things.”

When the Country went into lockdown last year, there were fears it would prove a devastating blow for our local wine businesses hit by smoke and drought.

But, as restrictions eased, record numbers of tourist flocked to Orange and demand for local wines increased.

“If you go back to that moment of lockdown for COVID, I remember one week into it and seeing our distribution into Sydney and Melbourne just stop. One hundred per cent stop! We were thinking, what are we going to do when next vintage comes, we'll have wine coming out our ears, but it is the opposite, we are scrambling to get enough wine!” says Justin.

Even without a cellar door, See Saw sales were up by around 20 per cent on the previous year and the future is looking bright.

The growing season may have been wet, but the skies have (largely) stayed clear for the harvest, much to the relief of Justin and other local vignerons.

And the quality of the fruit has been exceptional, says Justin.

“I think we are seeing Orange at its best this year! The cooler season and slow ripening means we are really getting those intense fruit flavours and this year we are seeing these beautiful, natural acids, which is what Orange is famous for. It’s why Orange does great sparkling and great chardonnay!”

Tom Ward of Swinging Bridge Wines and President of the Orange Regional Vignerons Association believes 2021 will be an exceptional vintage for Orange.

“I've been in this game for 20 years and I think it could be up there with one of the best vintages I've seen,” says Tom.

“The season has been cold and there has been extremely high-quality fruit. We wish there was more of it! It is a realisation of six months of hard work from all my team and just to see what's coming off now is pretty exciting!”